Departing the Kennicott with more than a spring in our step, we merrily wandered into Ketchikan itself, exploring the touristy Creek Street before settling in Annabelle’s, a fine local seafood bar for a leisurely meal. We were back at the terminal for our next sailing – the 06:00 departure from Ketchikan to Wrangell, onboard the Taku, the only unaltered unit of AMHS’s original 1963-built trio. Ordered in 1960 as part of a four-vessel building programme, these three overnight sisters were designed by Philip Spaulding of Seattle, and, like the BC Ferries’ original sisters, were clearly evolved from the Coho. Their delivery, successively throughout 1963, marked the foundation of the Alaska Marine Highway System as we know it today. They initially established services from Skagway and Haines down to Prince Rupert, before the connection to Seattle was inaugurated in 1967, and, of course, switched to Bellingham in 1989. Whilst the first in the Alaskan series, the Malaspina, was stretched in 1972, and the third, the Matanuska, received similar treatment in 1978, the Taku has never been rebuilt. Taking advantage of the opportunity to board when the vessel arrives, we significantly saved on the cost of overnight accommodation by staying up in the terminal until her arrival at 2am, and then taking an ensuite cabin onboard.
By the time we woke, the Taku was well underway on the six-hour passage to Wrangell, and we enjoyed a late breakfast whilst watching passing cruise ships such as the Carnival Spirit. The atmosphere onboard AMHS is as wholesomely American as cheerleaders, blueberry pie and high school proms. The Stars & Stripes is found prominently all around the ship – miniature flags hanging from the ceiling, full size versions hung on doors, or painted on bulkheads. Their cafeterias scream traditional American diner, with extensive breakfast menus including bottomless coffee, freshly-baked muffins, French toast, hash browns and eggs any style – sunny-side-up or over-easy being the favourites.
As mentioned, the original trio were based on the design of the 1959-built Coho, but with an additional deck of staterooms incorporated beneath the main saloon deck. The Taku’s passenger accommodation consists of the main cabin deck, with reception hall forward and a recliner lounge and video lounge aft, with a semi-circular observation lounge right at the stern. On this deck, attractive semi-enclosed side promenades run on either beam. The deck above starts with a raised observation lounge forward, with an arcade offset to port leading astern, passing a small gift shop, library and further recliner lounge before leading to the main cafeteria aft, the latter incorporating the tiny bar. At 43-years of age it is perhaps understandable that her interior is somewhat dated, but she is in immaculate condition throughout – with absolutely spotless external decks.
As approached Wrangell, the onboard National Forestry Commission ranger gave a brief talk about the sights in the town. All the vessels in the fleet have a NFC desk, complete with displays full of information on the local geography and wildlife. During summer months, a ranger is stationed on each ship, and they offer a tailored lecture programme as well as answering individual passengers’ questions. Their lectures are one of the few diversions offered onboard – free films are shown in the video lounges, but otherwise no organised entertainment is offered. Arriving at Wrangell, we left our luggage at the terminal and spent a laid-back afternoon exploring this small town, including the local Totem Pole Park and a beach littered with pre-historic rock carvings. [Text continues on next page] |
