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CANADA & ALASKA, SUMMER 2006
Part Three: Spirit of Vancouver Island
Tsawwassen - Swartz Bay
Main text written by Richard Seville
Pictures ©
matt@hhvferry.com except where stated
Top: The Spirit of Vancouver Island.
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Stepping bleary eyed from Vancouver International airport, we picked up another hire car, and headed for our pre-booked hotel in Tsawwassen, eagerly anticipating a good sleep prior to kicking off the West-Coast portion of our trip. As it was our first visit to this area, our plan was arranged to allow us to try one example of each of BC Ferries’ major class of vessel, with a quick visit to America’s 51st State on the Alaska Marine Highway interspersing the Canadian portions.

From their inception in 1958 with a plans for a brand new route and an order for two sister ships, BC Ferries has grown, both organically and through takeovers, to operate 35 vessels on no less than 25 routes. Transporting over 21 million passengers each year, BC Ferries is an integral part of the communities it serves and, in our opinion, provide an excellent service. Without doubt the most significant milestone in the Company’s history was their transformation in April 2003, from a state-run Company into an independent, commercial organisation.  Almost immediately, the Company launched a 15-year rejuvenation plan to upgrade existing vessels and to replace no less than 18 members of the fleet. Three years on, orders have been confirmed for 4 new ships, and the newly independent BC Ferries has a new brand identity, logo, and standard fleet interior. Already, four of the five C-class and both the S-class have been refurbished in the new corporate style, replacing the previous interiors which were best described as functional and dated. Initial progress therefore looks promising, but with a current average vessel age of 32-years, the Company clearly faces a major task to modernise the fleet. Despite their age, all the vessels were well maintained both internally and externally, and almost all the vessels provide appropriate facilities for their crossings. Whilst they may not be luxurious, they are comfortable and clean, and both service and standards were excellent across the board – with a wide choice of reasonably priced and tasty food, served by friendly staff. Port and terminal infrastructure is also excellent – with the key ports located at the end of highways, permitting vehicles simply to drive up to the ticket booth, onto the vessel, and then off again directly onto the highway on the other side.
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Disembarkation was equally efficient and once again, the vehicle ramps lead directly onto the highway heading to Victoria. One quick U-turn later however, and our group were back at the terminal – one member dashing for the 11:00 sailing to Fulford Harbour, Salt Spring Island. This 40-minute hop was operated by the 1997-built Skeena Queen, one of several basic open-deck, double-ended units in the fleet deployed on local inter-island services. The Skeena Queen offers four small passenger lounges, two each on either side of the vehicle deck, as well as limited outside deck seating. The sailing was exactly to time, allowing a leisurely half-hour to wander around the relaxed destination, before the return sailing. No fares are collected on the return – all passengers must purchase a return ticket upon departure. [text continued on next page]
Above & below: Starboard-side seating next to the 'Passages' Gift Shop and, (below) the adjacent 'Coast Cafe Express, on the Spirit of Vancouver Island.
Click for larger image
Our first crossing was from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, the company’s original route, which will celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2010. From those early days, the operation has developed into an impressively slick operation, with a four-strong local fleet offering hourly departures from each end on the 95-minute crossing. Witnessing the 25-minute turnaround is quite something, and European operators could certainly learn from BC Ferries. Our 09:00 sailing was aboard the 1993-built Spirit of Vancouver Island, which was substantially refurbished between January and March 2006, at a cost of $14 million. Along with her sister the Spirit of British Columbia, she is the largest vessel in the fleet and the twins are the mainstays of the Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay route. The two 1993-built ships are supported at peak times by the first generation Queen of Vancouver and Queen of Saanich. Newly refurbished, the S-class are outstanding examples of efficient, comfortable shuttle ferries, providing all the facilities required for the crossing. Passenger accommodation is spread over two principle decks and iswell laid out with excellent passenger flow, ensuring over 2000 passengers can be accommodated with ease. The main deck commences forward a panoramic seating lounge, then passageways on either beam lead aft, passing through a further saloon containing both the Midships Coffee Lounge and Passages Gift Shop, before entering the Coastal Café. Finally, they continue aft to the Pacific Buffet, a fixed price restaurant. The upper deck contains crew accommodation, a conference room and 4 passenger staterooms forward, whilst amidships are two spacious seating lounges, which include numerous individual business workstations, and, right aft,  the premium SeaWest Lounge. Passenger facilities are complete with extensive open deck space, including a full walk-around promenade and wide sun-deck forward of the funnel. With such facilities, it is a wonder that some passengers still remain in their vehicles – although this continues to be permitted.
Click above for a Spirit of Vancouver Island deckplan
Above: The amidships cafeteria.
Above: Right aft on the upper passenger deck can be found the pleasant SeaWest Lounge, available to passengers paying a supplement.
Above: Amidships on the upper deck are a pair of high-capacity seating lounges.
Above: The Queen of Vancouver.
Above: The Skeena Queen.